Samphire Seafood Bar & Grill, South Queensferry

There has never been any doubting that Orocco Pier, in the historic Edinburgh waterfront suburb of South Queensferry, boasts some of the finest views of any hotel and restaurant in Scotland. The vista of the Forth Bridges is breathtaking, but for some diners the food has not always matched the stellar views.

Chic Oyster Bar

All that has changed with the opening of the superb Samphire Seafood Bar & Grill, which looks set to put Orocco Pier on the culinary as well as the tourist map. Orocco Pier was always a cool customer, its design savvy team investing in hardwoods, mood lighting and uniformly black attired waiting staff. You can understand the whisperings of style over substance when both the hotel, Samphire and the neighbouring Antico bar look so good.

While Antico is more comfort food than culinary creation Samphire is quite literally a different kettle of fish. Seafood is the star at slinky Samphire. From the moment you walk in the striking new bar awaits with high stools awaiting and menus laid out that offer oysters to go with your cool cocktails or glass of bubbly. What recession?

Eating at the bar is all very en vogue – perhaps Samphire has taken inspiration from Roy Brett’s phenomenal seafood eatery in Edinburgh, Ondine – and it works. If you are not too hungry or in a rush just those oysters and maybe some salt and pepper squid at the bar will do If you have more time venture deeper into Samphire and a real treat awaits.

Dine with those Famous Bridges for Company

They have knocked down a wall and in doing so really opened up the main dining space. The new circular table for nine is a superb setting and may just be the most spectacular table in Edinburgh as you dine with those two famous bridges for company. The mood lighting and dark furnishings evoke the ambience of a sort of funky speakeasy and this is certainly a venue for decadence. Again mercifully Samphire is not just a case of style over substance.

The menu has real bite with starters of the likes of grilled split langoustines in butter, lemon and garlic. Mussel pots intriguingly come in three varieties: classic moules mariniere, Provencal and with a tongue tingling Thai red curry. The mains are even more impressive. As well as daily specials there is West Coast lobster thermidor and a decent spread of non-fishy delights such as sirloin steak and duck breast with pak choi and pork belly. The highlight, though, is undoubtedly the roasted shellfish platter. Here a half lobster comes with Loch Etive oysters, mussels from the Isle of Lewis and Scottish langoustines, clams and prawns in a delicious garlic and lemon butter. Washed down with a crisp white wine – and they have a good selection of those – it does not get much better.

No one is doubting that Orocco Pier has always looked the part. Today this chic and smooth operator undoubtedly has a restaurant worthy of those looks that makes it one of the most enjoyable places eat at in Scotland whether you are staying over or not. And stay over you should and treat yourself to a room a view for breakfast.

Samphire Seafood Bar and Grill, Orocco Pier, 17 The High Street, South Queensferry, Edinburgh, EH30 9PP. Tel: +44 (0) 870-1181664. www.oroccopier.co.uk

InsiderScotland Rating [effortless-gm address=”17 The High Street, South Queensferry, Edinburgh, EH30 9PP”]

For a Romantic Meal 8/10

For a Business Meal 8/10

For Families 7/10

For Real Gastronomes 7/10

InsiderScotland Rating 9/10