The Proclaimers may extol the virtues of walking 500 miles, but it’s far more fun to drive. And the North Coast 500 (www.northcoast500.com) offers just that, a route that sweeps around the Highlands with a bonus 16 miles making it 516 miles in total. It curls off around Wester Ross, Sutherland, Caithness, Easter Ross, the Black Isle and Inverness-shire. We really like that the organisers listen to any community concerns and this year published an independent study into its impacts, promising to act on any concerns. They also encourage visitors to take their time and not race around, as well as signing a sustainable Visitor Pledge. We took a week to drive around this time, which I’d say is the bare minimum. I strongly suggest you spend much more time really enjoying the route and taking a deep dive into the Highlands.
Here is a day by day guide to what we did, where we stayed and where we dined:
Day 1 – Inverness
The best way to enjoy the NC500 is to take things slowly so we spent our first night in Inverness. Our base was the gorgeous Kingsmills Hotel, which dates back to the 1700s and has lovely leafy grounds and a leisure centre. Like many hotels and other spots en route now they have EV chargers. We hired a top of the range Lotus EV from Park’s (www.parks.uk.com/lotus). This proved a wise move as it was not only lovely to drive, but it had a range over 250 miles, which meant we didn’t have to worry about charging. To be honest we were pleasantly surprised by the amount of chargers en route so taking an EV is a great option. Especially a seriously fancy one from Park’s like we had.
Our first stop was Uile-bheist Distillery & Brewery, an exciting new distillery that celebrates their first whisky maturing this summer. They’ve gone for a light, fruity Speyside style without peat. Our tour guide Matthew was great and really got across the passion behind what they do. They’ve got a lively bar to relax in afterwards here by the river.
I always head back to one spot every time I go to Inverness. The Ness Islands are a gloriously green lung within easy access of the centre. It’s the perfect place to relax surrounded by trees and the gushing River Ness, much beloved of the locals. The ideal slow start to a driving route that needs to be savoured.
Dinner was at Torrish at Ness Walk. This smooth fine dining spot was a hit. We dined overlooking their garden on plump Orkney scallops and delicious halibut. The wines and service were spot on too at a restaurant that definitely deserves Michelin recognition.
Day 2 Inverness-Dornoch
We got our first taste of the big hills, skies and waters to come on a fun boat trip with Dolphin Spirit. They’ve got two vessels that take you out in search of the world’s most northerly bottlenose dolphins. We spotted them – porpoises and bountiful seabirds too.
The Singleton of Glen Ord Distillery brought what is a contender for Scotland’s biggest sandwich in their award winning visitor centre. The delicious pastrami focaccia was huge! Their tours and malts are superb too and it’s a joy to savour them as most of their wares are spirited off to Asia. Like all distilleries we visited on the NC500 they offer a ‘driver’s dram’ to take away.
We pushed north to Dornoch Station, a seriously decadent old world hotel. They have a lovely team here, who made us really welcome. It’s the sort of place you just gaze out of the big windows or play a frame of snooker with a wee dram. We did both as well as savour more scallops and perfectly grilled Scotch beef in their restaurant. After dinner a walk along Dornoch’s sweeping sands beckoned. The scenery and real sense of wild beauty is an ever present attraction on the NC500.
Day 3 Dornoch-Wick
First stop was stately Dunrobin Castle, a castle that looks more like a French chateaux. Its grand rooms are festooned with period furniture and oil paintings. The grounds are immaculate and a falconry display here is included in your ticket. It’s worth lingering for lunch at Dunrobin Castle Tea Room – they do a mean local venison meatball baguette.
Stopping for walks is a real highlight of the NC500. We headed down the Whaligoe Steps, a spirit-soaring experience as the 300+ steps take you right down to the old fishing harbour by the North Sea. There were more fulmars than people on our adventure.
We enjoyed another walk to Castle Sinclair Girnigoe, a romantic ruin on the cliffs on a coast that peers over towards Orkney. It’s a deeply dramatic spot, just one of many that makes you toast your choice of the NC500.
Tonight’s overnight came up near the north of Scotland at Mackays Hotel in Wick. They do a mean fish and chips and also have the world’s shortest street on site. Ask the staff about that! Wick’s historic centre was forged by Thomas Telford and you can take a wee tour that showcases his finest work.
Day 4 – Wick-Scourie
Strathnaver Museum brought a sobering sense of history as we pushed out across the rugged northern coast. It delves into the Highland Clearances, which brought strife to the glens and led to massive depopulation. It is community-run and it was great to hear the volunteers talk about how positive it is that people driving the NC500 come to visit.
Smoo Caves in Durness is very popular with good reason. You park up by the toilets (facilities on the NC500 are much better in general these days) and head down the steps that snake down the cliffs. At the base the massive caves await. We just mooched around appreciating their grandeur, but you can go on guided walking tours and boat tours too if you want to push further.
Oldshoremore Croft Cabins was a really special overnight. These cosy cabins come with their own kitchens so you can cook up a real local produce storm. They recline in a gorgeous spot too just back from a sweeping sandy beach. We loved Oldshoremore Beach – just one of a necklace of remarkable beaches that line the NC500.
Dinner at Crofter’s Kitchen was spectacular. This 21st-century croft is the brainchild of lovely couple Heather and Grant Mercer. They’ve worked miracles since opening in 2024, trying to source all their great produce from within 30 miles. They also rear their own pigs and grow their own produce. Their seafood platter is a thing of utter beauty. The focus at the shack is very much on seafood, though they have great meat dishes too. Best enjoyed in their new restaurant area too, which shields you from the elements.
Day 5 – Scourie-Ullapool
After a lazy morning we pushed on admiring the mountains en route to Kylesku Hotel. This remote spot is a great place to eat and we lunched on Isle of Lewis mussels and Scottish oysters. The views – like from many restaurants on the NC500 – were sublime peering out over the loch and glowering hills.
Ardvreck Castle brought another romantic ruin right by the NC500. As a Scot it was great to see people from all over the world enjoying our scenery and history so much. Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve brought a different kind of joy. It’s part of the North West Highlands GeoPark. Here the walks open up the importance the local geology played in our understanding of the earth’s crusts and how our world formed. Did you know that England and Scotland were once an ocean apart? You’ll learn about that and more here.
Ullapool felt like a big city after our drive through the wilds. This postcard perfect oasis brought the welcoming Caledonian Hotel, souvenir shops, cosy pubs and loch views.
Ullapool also brought the Seaforth, an excellent restaurant where we enjoyed more fresh seafood and some fine local ales. As with everywhere we ate the staff were spot on too.
Day 6 – Ullapool-Poolewe
This manicured flora of Inverewe Garden came as quite a contrast to the savage mountainscapes of Wester Ross. I’d been to this remarkable oasis before, but never taken one of their boat trips. These are great fun as they really open up the local wildlife like seabirds and otters. Skipper Jamie was great too. Lunch in their café afterwards was a treat, with local beef burgers and ace traybakes.
Corriness House nearby was the sort of passionately run local guest house the NC500 offers in such depth. They made us feel really welcome, helped with advice on the area and cooked up a proper Scottish breakfast too. Lovely bedrooms. They tipped us off about a new local brewery taproom we popped too later for a sunset enjoyed with Skye and the Outer Hebrides exploding in the distance.
Badachro Inn was our dinner stop before that sunset. It has breathtaking views over the water and we enjoyed these as a seal played right outside. I tucked into local squid and then seafood linguine, as well as local craft ale. Afterwards we headed to a local beach, where we were the only ones on it.
Day 7 – Poolewe to Inverness
At Badachro Distillery we loved what Gordon Quinn and Vanessa Quinn have forged around their Highland home. They ‘made gin by accident’ and haven’t looked back since they started selling it in 2016. Today they offer an impressive range of gins, rum, vodka and they’ve even started laying down their own whisky. They offer engaging tours too.
Today’s drive was the most spectacular yet, which is really saying something – a smorgasbord of vaulting mountains, sweeping glens and silvery sea lochs. Attadale Gardens brought a contrast, with a planned garden alive with striking sculptures. It’s a special spot, family-run with real passion. Lovely DIY café too. A must visit.
Inverness Palace Hotel & Spa was our last hotel and a great one at that. Some rooms peer towards the river, as does their restaurant and breakfast room. We enjoyed dinner here with a castle view, before a last night stroll around this graceful city. They’ve got a pool and gym too.
Day 8 – Inverness
Our last visitor attraction was a special one. And apt. The brilliant new Inverness Castle Experience is like the NC500. It encourages you to take time to really explore the Highlands and listen to the stories of the people who choose to call them home. It’s not a traditional museum or castle, more a smorgasbord of audio-visual experiences set inside a dramatically reborn castle. The views are epic and it’s well worth staying on for lunch with lots of local produce on an impressive menu. It was the perfect end to a perfect trip on what for me is the world’s finest long distance drive.
*This blog comes in association with NC500 Ltd. Note that all views and opinions expressed are independent and are our own.
