8 Reasons to Visit the Borders

When I head back to the Scottish Borders I always get the same feeling – why on earth do I not visit more? This gloriously scenic wonderland is alive with great food, trim market towns, ace shopping and a swathe of ways to enjoy the great outdoors. Were the Borders in most countries it would be a celebrated national park and one of the most visited oases. But all too often people ignore the Borders on their dash to the Highlands and Islands. Don’t be so hasty: slow down and savour the glorious Scottish Borders. Here are eight reasons you must visit the Scottish Borders.

1. Weaving Wonderland

The Borders are famous for their weaving heritage – this is after all the home of Tweed. The Great Tapestry of Scotland Museum just had to eventually be here. The purpose-built home in Galashiels is a sheer joy in itself – all light and space. It really brings out the best in the myriad panels that depict over 400 millions years of Scotland’s story. It’s the work of 1,000 weavers and not just career weavers. I met Susie Finlayson who got roped in to help sew the tapestry with no previous experience. As did her mum! Allow plenty of time to explore as there is so much to see and so much intricacy at play. The location is spot on too, just five minutes stroll from Galashiels station on the Borders Railway.

2. Discover Rome’s Afghanistan

The Trimontium Museum in Melrose re-opened in 2021 after a £1.4 million revamp that has really brought out the best of this startling collection, whose treasures hail from Trimontium, the largest Roman fort in Scotland, just next door. The director of the Trimontium Trust, Dr John Reid, is winningly passionate about the museum and its role in challenging conventional thought on the Romans in Scotland. For Reid Hadrian’s Wall was no bizarre vanity project, but an essential bulwark against an embryonic Scottish nation. He rails against Anglo-Romano Centric scholars and dubs Scotland ‘Rome’s Afghanistan’. The digs here and the marvellous collections back up his theories.

3. Great Places to Stay

There are hotels and campsites, but I was really impressed on my last visit with a brace of B&Bs. First up was Bowden House in the shadow of the old Roman fort on the Eildon Hills. Uta and Jason Varty were very welcoming hosts – I had a cup of coffee in my hands and biscuits within minutes of arriving! They only have three bedrooms. I had a lovely big mahogany bed gazing out to the hills. Breakfast was spot on too, served in a grand dining room with subtle classical music setting the tone. I kicked off with a lovely fresh fruit bowl with yoghurt and local honey, before bashed avocado and poached eggs on toast with a spicy kick. Lovely. Over in Peebles I had an equally warm welcome at Kingsmuir House. Owners Malcolm and Karen Mullarkey lead me to what I can only call my suite, rather than just a bare hotel room. It was huge, with a large bedroom, backed up with a little sitting room with a sofa and large bathroom with a stand-alone bath. They only have two of these gorgeous suites. The glass of bubbly on arrival was lovely too, as was dinner of haggis bon bon amuse bouche, followed by perfectly seared scallops. Then perfectly pink fillet steak.

4. Head to Hawick

This town was once one of Scotland’s richest, with Tweed invented here and myriad mills bashing away by the Teviot River. I was really impressed by Famously Hawick, a collaborative initiative from five bright local businesses. The Borders Distillery have brilliantly resurrected an old industrial building with their gorgeous distillery, which conjures up gin and vodka too. Hawico meanwhile are a global fashion name known for their cashmere knitwear – you can peer into their factory from the slick shop. I really enjoyed my visit to Johnstons of Elgin as I not only picked up a heavily discounted coat, but enjoyed one of their great tours that take you right to the heart of their cashmere, vicuna, lambswool and merino production. William Lockie meanwhile have a gloriously old school shop – there is real heritage here as they have been in business since 1874. Last but certainly not least are Lovat Mill, where you can go in and have your own Tweed made for you.

5. Trim Market Towns

I love Hawick, but there are other towns to explore too. A brace of market towns stand out for me. Melrose has a lovely main square alive with wee independent shops, with Robert the Bruce’s heart interred nearby at chocolate box beautiful Melrose Abbey. Don’t miss taking a look at the local rugby stadium – where the famous Melrose Sevens is held – and their new all-weather pitch. Also enjoy a wee walk along the banks of the Tweed. Peebles lies on the Tweed too and a walk along its banks is a sheer joy. As is a sweep around the grand town centre with its myriad independent shops. There is real character and quality here – Peebles really offers the antithesis to the word of faceless supermarket hegemony.

6. A Quartet of Amazing Abbeys

The Borders Abbeys are reason enough to visit the region for alone. They all date from the 12^th century when King David I encouraged them to show and assert his power over the contested Borders. My favourite is very well preserved Melrose Abbey, but they all have their own charms. Kelso Abbey boasts a deeply dramatic façade, Jedburgh Abbey is brilliantly preserved and you really can appreciate its majesty and scale. Dryburgh Abbey – a favourite of Sir Walter Scott – is the under the radar stunner. Scott loved it so much he is buried here.

7. Wonderful Food and Drink

The Borders are famous for their fine produce, from lamb and beef, through to salmon and trout, plus the seafood of Eyemouth. On my most recent trip I dined for the first time at Osso in Peebles – this lovely dining room is the setting for bright, creative modern Scottish tapas. I also dined with Nick Henderson in Melrose. He is one of the family team who run both Burt’s and the Townhouse just across the road. He really enthused me about the great local produce as we tucked into Borders lamb and venison. I also ate well on a salmon sandwich with the bread from local bakery Dalgetty’s at the Great Tapestry of Scotland Museum, and in the charming café at Johnstons of Elgin.

8. Get Active in the Great Outdoors

The Borders are a brilliant place to head if you want to drink in lungfuls of fresh air and get in shape. This is serious walking country. The coast-to-coast Southern Upland Way pushes in from the west and surges towards the North Sea. The Borders Abbeys way takes in the famous quartet of abbeys, while the St Cuthbert’s Way heads off in search of England. The quiet roads are great for road cyclists, and the Borders are world famous for mountain biking. The two most famous mountain bike hubs are at Glentress and Innerleithen. I love that all levels are catered for, from easier green and blue runs, right through to more testing red and back runs, plus skill circuits too.

*This post comes in association with the Scottish Guest House and B&B Alliance,  who helped organise my most recent trip to the Borders. All views, opinions and impressions are entirely independent.