The Royal Dunkeld, Perthshire

In the days when Thomas Telford’s bridge replaced the ferry across the River Tay and the rail head pioneered its way north through Scotland’s wildlands Dunkeld was very much at the end of the line from Central Scotland. And a grand terminus it was at that, with a flurry of hostelries and grand hotels built to cater for the travellers breezing through this pivotal town, which included one Queen Victoria, who may just have been the Royal Dunkeld Hotel’s most famous resident.

On the Banks of the Mighty River Tay

Time has moved on and the A9 road now swishes road travellers right past on their scrambles north in search of the Highlands proper, but Dunkeld is still as special a place as it has always been. It is hard not to like a town built on sturdy granite and sandstone, tucked in a fold of rugged hills and richly forested slopes, which lies on the banks of the mighty Tay, Scotland’s longest river.

Its sturdy stone streets house wee shops, tea rooms and Dunkeld’s very own smokehouse (the salmon is particularly excellent), and then there are the riverside walks and its grand cathedral, the latter one of Scotland’s most impressive.

Follow in Queen Victoria’s Footsteps

Time may have moved on, but the Royal Dunkeld looks pretty much as it did from the outside when Queen Victoria arrived. First opened as an inn in 1821 it quickly became a favourite with stagecoach passengers rumbling through between Perth and Inverness. Today Dunkeld is something of a relative backwater, a favourite retreat for wealthy residents of Perthshire, but often seen as a quick stop off for tourists at best.

Gargoyle’s Bistro

The hotel reflects changed days. Today it is a quiet sleepy three star that needs a lick of paint in many parts and a bit of tender loving care. Our room was comfy enough, comfy rather than luxurious. Its main restaurant looks a bit old fashioned, but we found the cooking excellent, with plump Scottish mussels and local lamb highlights they could shout about more. The new Gargoyle’s bistro, laden with local wood sculpture, is promising too and shows a welcome sense of ambition.

Friendly Team

For us the highlight were the staff. The young team were great with our young kids, but also enthusiastic where many young Scots in the industry fall short. I liked too that the hotel had a public bar where the locals went so you could pop through for a pint after dinner and mingle there or even in the beer garden in summer. The free wifi was also handy and this worked in the bar.

The Royal Dunkeld is no smooth, luxury abode. It is, though, a characterful old timer, rough around the edges, but with an unmistakable charm that makes for a thoroughly enjoyable place to stay for visitors looking to turn back time and not just make a mad dash for the Highlands.

The Royal Dunkeld, Atholl Street, Dunkeld, PH8 0AR. Tel. +44 (0)1350 727322. www.royaldunkeld.co.uk

InsiderScotland Rating  [effortless-gm address=”[The Royal Dunkeld, Atholl Street, Dunkeld, PH8 0AR”]

For Families 6/10

For a Romantic Break 6/10

For Food 7/10

For Business People 5/10

InsiderScotland Rating 6/10