The Roost, Bridge of Earn

Most people bashing past on the M90 between Edinburgh and Perth know Bridge of Earn as just a blue road sign. That is a shame as they are missing out on The Roost, a gem of a restaurant that serves up well cooked local produce in a cosy old cottage that could not be further removed from a motorway service station Just five minutes off a motorway seems an unlikely location, but that is not the whole story.

A Local Secret

The Roost is actually in the tiny village of Kintillo. Five minutes is enough to take you away from the traffic, to divert you into a land of trees and parks. This wee retreat sits just across from the exclusive Kilgraston School and its expansive, leafy grounds. It is an exclusive spot too that is still something of a local secret. Parking is right outside, handy for us with small children in tow.

The dining space is homely but not cheesy, a strong emerald green colour scheme lighting up the traditional half beamed open ceiling. Engaging modern art brightens up the walls. Table settings are simple and service spot on.

Family Run Restaurant

and Ann Dover are the couple behind The Roost. Ann runs a front of house team who deliver unobtrusive, informal service that is knowledgeable too. On our visit they easily juggled our mixed family group, an older family and a sprinkling of couples.

Tim is the star in the kitchen, bringing to bear talents he has built up over the years in a flurry of well regarded restaurants, both in Scotland and abroad.

Sourcing is Key

Sourcing is key with as much meat and fish sourced in Scotland as possible, with the emphasis on it being as local as possible. The blue cheese in the pear and bleu cheese salad comes from Tain and the hare rillettes are even closer, sourced from surrounding Perthshire.

The main courses are the real stars. Perthshire venison is a regular and on our visit was served in a melt-in-the-mouth casserole with thyme-roasted potatoes. Alternatives included braised Ayrshire pork cheeks, with grain mustard mash, pickled red cabbage and caramelised apple. Fishy options included Shetland plaice fillets and smoked haddock, the latter starring alongside Tobermory cheddar in a delicious tart.

Desserts are wonderfully comforting. Rhubarb and custard crumble comes with caramel ice cream, while crème brulee is spiced with a pineapple compote and crunchy almond biscuits.

A lighter option is the affogato, an expresso topped off with a scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream. Coffees are proper too, not a surprise in a restaurant that puts an emphasis on attention to detail and getting all the little things right.

We visited at lunch, but they also open Thursday through to Saturday for dinner, with a fixed price Roast of the Week on Sundays joining the well thought out a la carte menu.

As you leave you have to pass their cake display, an impossibly tempting distraction. You might want to follow us by taking a little bit of The Roost with you, which made for a delicious sugary treat later on in our journey that conjured up cosy memories of one of Perthshire’s wee secret restaurant gems.

The Roost, Forgandenny Road, Kintillo, Bridge of Earn, Perthshire, PH2 9AZ. Tel. +44(0)1738-812111. www.theroostrestaurant.co.uk

InsiderScotland Rating [effortless-gm address=”Forgandenny Road, Kintillo, Bridge of Earn, Perthshire, PH2 9AZ”]

For a Romantic Meal 7/10

For a Business Meal 6/10

For Families 8/10

For Real Gastronomes 7/10

InsiderScotland Rating 7/10